Radiating Makeup Base Cream

By: TOM BRANNA

Editor

Ingredients

%

Phase A

C12-15 alkyl benzoate
3.00

0

Schercemol NGDO Ester (Lubrizol) (Neopentyl glycol diethylhexanoate)
7.00

Schercemol 318 Ester (Lubrizol) (Isopropyl isostearate)
4.00

Schercemol DISM Ester (Lubrizol) (Diisostearyl malate)
1.00

SilSense DW-18 Silicone (Lubrizol) (Dimethicone PEG-7 isostearate)
1.00

Cremophor A6 (BASF) (Ceteareth-6 (and) stearyl alcohol)
1.80

Brij 58 (Croda/Uniqema) (Ceteth-20)
1.20

Cetearyl alcohol
1.50

Vitamin E acetate (Essential Ingredients or BASF) (Tocopheryl acetate)
0.01

Carbopol 980 Polymer (Lubrizol) (Carbomer)
0.35

Allantoin (ISP or Merck)
0.01

Disodium EDTA
0.02

Flamenco Satin Pearl (BASF) (Mica (and) titanium dioxide)
2.50

Butylene glycol
2.00

Glucam (Lubrizol) E-20 Humectant (Methyl gluceth-20
1.00

Phenonip (Clariant) (Phenoxyethanol, methyl-, ethyl-, butyl-, propyl-, (and) isobutylparaben)
0.40

Phase B

Alusion (5-10 microns (Antaria) (Synthetic sapphire)
1.00

Phase C

Deionized water
71.81

Phase D

TEA (99%) (Triethanolamine)
0.40

Procedure

Phase A: Mix all ingredients and heat to 70-80°C. Mix until uniform. Phase B: Slowly add Alusion to the batch. Continue mixing until uniform. Phase C: In a separate vessel, dissolve disodium EDTA into deionized water. Slowly disperse Carbopol 980 Polymer into deionized water with vigorous agitation (800 -1,000 rpm). Mix until uniform. Add the other phase C ingredients to phase C. Mix until uniform. Heat phase C to 70-80°C. Continue mixing (300 rpm) until uniform. At 70-80°C, add phase A/B to phase C. Homogenize for 3 minutes at 5,000 rpm. (Ultra Turrax T125 Homogenizer IKA-Werke). Neutralize batch with triethanolamine. Mix until uniform. Allow batch to cool with continuous mixing. When batch has cooled to 50°C, add Phenonip. Decrease mixing rate to 100-200 rpm. Continue mixing until batch has cooled to 35-40°C.

Properties

Appearance—White to off-white cream ; pH —6.0-6.5; Viscosity (mPa·s) (**Brookfield DV-II+ Pro @ 20 rpm, 25°C, #6 spindle, measured at 24 hours)—28,000-33,000; Yield Value (dyn/cm²)—1,100-1,700; Recommended Packaging—Cream bottle or tube; Stability—Passed 3 months @ 45°C and 25°C, 5 cycles freeze/thaw.